Vimeo member ek2008 really took his time making this DIY video camera stabilizer. Not only looks good, but works great as seen in the video above. Look through some of the older videos and you'll see it's been a work in progress for several months.
Vimeo member Tim Nitsch uses a simple servo, spool, and a bit of string to motorize an IGUS slider. More information on how it's all put together at the video link.
[Video and Audio are terrible. Shot with a cheap Point and Shoot]
Not sure if the post shows up, but it's about 1:00 a.m. (in the morning). I received a super last minute call to help out with some Glidecam work on an event. So I decided to hack something up which I think would be helpful. When flying on this Glidecam i'm closing down the aperture to keep things in focus. This means less light. So I decided to mod a few RC batteries together to power up the 352 LED Ring Light. It's bright, it's well diffused, and it's dimmable. It's the perfect light source for what i'm trying to achieve during this event. [BTW the light at the end of this video is turned all the way down - it gets brighter!]
In order to mount the large 352 LED Ring light, I needed to raise up the 60D with a battery grip and then place it on top of a Calumet quick release adapter. A few flexible power arms kept the LED Ring light mounted and also the Rode VideoMic Pro in place. With the 60D Manual Audio + Rode VideoMic Pro +20db, it sounds really good. Anyways, this rig might be overkill so I also balanced out my 7D on the Glidecam HD1000 for times I don't need lighting or audio. Ok, time to nap. Could be a long day...
The Flycam Nano stabilizer has been around for years, but until recently it didn't get much steam. Now with plenty of fine examples of flying all the new light weight cameras, it's fast becoming the budget film maker's choice. Kai over at Poolfilm.com writes in about a problem with the Flycam Nano post. Turns out to have been a defective product, and then goes on to say the guys from India were nice enough to send another unit. This time though, the unit came with a different post. Gotta hand it to them for customer service, as I know we're all weary about overseas purchases.
So with the new thumb knob clamp in place (now similar to Glidecam's locking adjustment) the question is - Is this an older version or are we going to start seeing a change in the Flycam Nano's post? Anyone else get one recently to comment on this new post design? Mine is different as seen in my image below...
Vimeo member Carl throws up a demo video with the Canon T2i on Hague MMC video stabilizer. Something i've shown a while so nothing new there. Jump on over to 2:18 in the video and you find out how Carl balances the GoPro and iPhone properly. I've always said if your camera is too light for the stabilizer, you need to add weight to the top. Carl achieves this by adding a small Manfrotto tripod which works well for weight and adds the function of a quick release adapter. Now that the GoPro has an LCD BacPac, we could start seeing more GoPro Flying. Watch out Tiffen Smoothee, the cheaper Hague MMC with some small mods can easily balance a Flip, GoPro, iPhone and more...[Thanks Carl]
Hague Mini-Motion Cam Video Stabilizer
Now Carl does an excellent job with the Hague MMC, but i've used this stabilizer before and there's other (better and cheaper) options. The Hague is higher priced than the IndieHardware which I reviewed against the Hague MMC not so long ago. You can definitely save a few clams if you considered the IndieHardware over the Hague for your lightweight cameras.
IndieHardware Camera Stabilizer
If you're really interested in flying a GoPro, you should also check out another version of these type of stabilizers from Lensse. Probably just as good if not better than the rest with a price that sits in between. There's also a smaller version offered by Lensse dedicated to small Cell Phones (iPhones) or PDA's. Right now Lensse is trying to grab some marketshare and some items are being auctioned off starting at .99 cents. These small stabilizers already designed to work with an iPhone without any further modification, just might be good enough for the GoPro too. A deal hard to pass up..
The $24.00 dollar shoulder support with Rod mounts are getting a few questions as well as the recent Quick Release adapter posted on this blog. Here's a look at how i'm using these recently purchased items with my gear.
First a quick look at the cheap Quick Release adapter. It's not a standard QR adapter with a 1/4x20 thread already tapped in. Instead I run a beveled screw through the top of the adapter and place a bolt underneath. To keep the quick release adapter from shifting around I also used thin double sided tape between the adapter and the stage of the flycam nano. To prevent the nut from coming loose, I also have a washer + lock washer.
Second common question i've been getting is how to mount rods to the cheap $24 dollar shoulder support. To get the basic foundation setup, you'll need an adapter plate. This type of plate is commonly used under a rod rig so that it can be placed on top of a Tripod of Fluid head. When purchasing a basic set of rods or any rig, find out if one will be provided. If not you can buy one separately here: https://express35.com/tripod-mount/1054/
After mounting the adapter plate to the shoulder support, I can then position any set of handles, build up an offset stage, have support for a follow focus, matte box, etc. You can also find a basic set of rails with DSLR base plate, and Tripod plate here: https://express35.com/rail-system/295/
Gini Rig on $24 Shoulder Support w/ Varavon ViewFinder
I've seen a few cheap DSLR related items spin off into some success. Here's another new stabilizer on the market that I think is going to have a good future. It's coming in at $99 bucks available on Amazon and $99 on eBay with Free Shipping. Although the price is going to help make it popular, it helps to be designed fairly similar to another rig that goes for more than $250 dollars. Designed with aluminum and stainless steel, it can adjust your camera forward/back, left/right for an offset, up/down, and also can be modified for left or right shoulder shooting. A good 1" thick foam shoulder pad with metal shoulder support, i'm thinking it would be a great platform for drilling in accessory mounts. The handle can also be removed for going uber-simple.
The description claims a 'hands free' solution, but i'm curious if it really has that ability. If it does, then it's going to give the cheap plastic $24.00 dollar shoulder support a good run for the money. I should have my hands on one soon to be used with my new Sony A55. Looks like it will be an excellent light weight camera stabilizer for other cameras like the Panasonic GH1/GH2, Canon T2i, or Nikon D3100, but it does claim to be able to support up to 20lbs of weight.
$99 Video Shoulder Stabilizer Support
Also available via eBay + Free Shipping
$99 dollar shoulder support video stabilizer
You think you've got it tough when balancing your Glidecam at home? Well, you might be thinking differently after seeing this next video. Having just received the Glidecam HD1000 without testing things out, Adam was out in Africa and needed a bit more help getting things fine tuned. Talk about DIY and ingenuity, these guys took their time to make something look OEM, instead of just duct taping some random weights. Very cool video from Vimeo member Adam, thanks for sharing.
Ok, just to say I tried, here's a video trying to explain what I do to balance a stabilizer like the Glidecam or Flycam. This is one video I never wanted to do, because there are so many good ones already on the web. If you can find the videos on how to balance a Glidecam, that's pretty much the same thing for the Flycam. There is one thing those other videos don't talk about, and you'll hear me stress this several several times in the video. This most worthy tip comes in after 5:20 when I talk about moving the sled slightly upwards to reduce that awful rocking motion while you walk. The biggest problem with people trying to balance stabilizers is that they believe they need to really load up on the bottom weight to get the camera to stand upright. That's not true at all. You'll notice I begin to dial things in when my stabilizer is slightly at an angle. Once the stabilizer is at an angle, DO NOT ADD MORE WEIGHTS! Start adjusting the top stage to center the camera. If you can't seem to balance the camera by moving it on the stage, remember that the bottom weights can also be shifted back and forth to get the camera to stick upright.
Ok, now that the camera is upright and you think you have it ready to fly, check to see if it starts swaying. If the stabilizer is swaying side to side (like a boat in the ocean), then move the sled just millimeters upwards. Try try again and do it by just millimeters at a time. For the Steadicam Merlin - you will need to adjust the 'arch'. If you own one, you'll know what i'm talking about. The Arch is similar to the Glidecam Sled. Lower it and you'll be making it more bottom heavy. Close the Arch and you'll make it 'less bottom heavy'. For the Steadicam Merlin and Steadicam JR, you can also 'unthread' the Gimbal Handle. This is a design that Steadicam uses to change the center balance ever so slightly by unscrewing the handle. Balancing stabilizers takes patience and practice. Of course a few prayers and a three wolf moon shirt might help you get there faster.
I know I know. You're sick of hearing about the Nano and I said I wasn't going to show any sample footage of this uber cheap video stabilizer with the 7D + Tokina 11-16mm F/2.8. My first video was to show people that it does work with this weight, and I think I did accept a challenge. Every few minutes someone is saying it won't work because the weight would exceed what is listed on the product specs. Well after I shot the last video showing it was balanced, it worked so well, I had to do an example. In fact, I think some of you would be upset if you didn't see this next video. It handles superbly at this weight, and it can carry more. Believe me, i've played with many stabilizers. For something so cheap i'm surprised at the handling in this next video where I abuse the #$%^& out of it. I throw it around, spin it, whip it, whatever I could do to shake it around. Just to show there's no camera tricks, I threw a mirror in the studio. You can hear the wind pass the camera microphone as I toss the unit forward and back. Warning, it's quite dizzying footage but I wanted to show something more than just a casual walk. The demo stabilizer video was also shot in one take so there's no picking out just the 'nice footage'. This is a real look into how this thing flies with the Canon 7D + Tokina 11-16mm F/2.8.
Tokina 11-16mm Wide Angle Zoom
And since I know there will be additional questions about the Canon 5D Mark II, I balanced that too. The Tokina 11-16mm doesn't work on the full frame camera, so I threw on the Sigma 20mm F/1.8. This combination is actually lighter than the 7D + Tokina combo, so I needed to move the post higher up (making it less bottom heavy). The weights and all the configuration was still basically the same and I only needed to move the post upwards by about an inch.
And who ever threw me the challenge, let me know if this qualifies as a win? LOL. Check out the related article here: http://cheesycam.com/canon-7d-tokina-11-16mm-will-she-fly/
