Running Wires through CAME 7000 3 Axis Gimbal + Project Box Cover

• • 59 Comments

A couple of others have already ordered their gimbal, or have already received the gimbal, so I thought I'd just throw up this video. Here's a look at how and where my wires are run through the CAME 7000 3 Axis Gimbal along with a tip on removing those little connectors.

I'm still in the middle of taking the entire thing apart, but if you're already getting started maybe that video can give you an idea of how i've run the wires through the frame. Sorry the end of the video got cut off, but I got lazy. It is what it is.

This next video shows how i've added [in a not-so-elegant way] an electronics Project Box to the rear of the Gimbal. This keeps the control board covered (protected), prevents the battery cable from being yanked off the board, and also hides the excess wiring - keeping things clean. I have drilled a few holes to allow a flush mount, and a hole off the side for the USB port. Here's a closer look.

[ In case you are clueless to this product, check out the gimbal review posted earlier (here) ]

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59 thoughts on “Running Wires through CAME 7000 3 Axis Gimbal + Project Box Cover”

  4. MPK

    Hi Does anyone know if I can use a high amp battery to get more time then 20 mins with the gimbal and could you suggest one.

  5. Emm

     Post author

    @Petter Sand - I'm using the first clamp in this article: httpss://cheesycam.com/mini-clamps-for-your-14-20-accessories/. It's less than 8 dollars, opens fairly wide, and comes with an articulating ball head too. I'm using a small 5" monitor.

  6.

    Hi Emm! Thanks for your useful info! You have helped me a lot!
    I have a question if you know where to find a bullhead monitor mount that will fit on the rod?

    Best regards

    Petter

  7. joes

    Hi Thanks for doing all this. So I made the mistake of cutting the wire off the clips and now I need the ends so I can reconnect them. Where do I get the foo hickey on the end of the wire so I can reconnect the wore to the clip and what is it called? thanks!

  8.

    @Lorenzo-Very nice video! Could you share your Camera, lens combo for this video, maybe even what the weight is for them. Also, If you could post the Screen shots of your complete setup, what firmware you used, any secrets?

    This system needs all the support and global help it can get!

  9. Emm

     Post author

    @charles_alex - You have to connect it to a computer and configure the profile after you build it.

  10.

    @NickBicanic
    Power on sequence? what should happen once you turn it on – I haven’t soldered the connectors yet – but when I hold the contacts in place – I get a solid green and a flashing green on the board but no servo noise etc – which I found a little bit worrying (I wonder if everything is connected the right away around.

    Have you sort this out ? ive got the same but an extra red next to the flashing green light

  11.

    Hey guys,
    no one answered that before about turning on the gimbal ?
    What should happens ? what does the lights mean, ive got one stable green, one flashing green and a red one. and the gimbal is all loose is it normal ? shall i plug it to the computer first ?

  12. Lorenzo

    Hi Guys,

    Got this working now and I'm really happy with it. Did a small video practicing with the gimbal, shot it over the span of one hour and it is amazing what kind of diverse shots you can pull of! you can check it out here:

    Now my question; Does anyone have solution for transporting this particular gimbal? Any recommended case?

    Please let me know, thanks!

  13.

    @Taylor- I have requested help a few times, on both their Facebook page and their web-site. They are about 2-days in response. Don't ask more than one question in the same message you leave them. I don't know why, but they can't answer more than one question at a time. So far, none of their answers have worked and lack any informative info. They seem to give very short answers. I think this is because they are under staffed, overwhelmed, and a language barrier in communications. But they are responsive, just not very helpful.

  14.

    update: I have determined that the buttons I have are defective, but am having a hard time getting help from came customer service. Has anyone else had to deal with them? Are they usually fairly responsive/helpful?

  15.

    @Taylor- Wow, bet that was a lot of work! When i hooked mine up, USB to Computer,for the first time It did a few jiggles and then beeped a few times, then stopped. I then had to try the buttons that I hooked up and they worked! I was surprised, because I thought they had to be setup in the GUI. But if I pressed the right, left, up, down, buttons that's the way they went, and the buttons were pressure sensitive, press harder, and it moved faster.

    But after I loaded the 2.4 FW and wrote the file to the controller, they would not work, and I can't get them to work. I downloaded Tom Antos PID, lot of shaking.

    I'm trying to get a GH3 and a 12-35mm Lens configured.
    What FW are you using. I need to get this working as I have a couple of gigs coming up at the end of this month I would like to use this on. If you look at the bottom of the videos and pics on Came-tv website under Gimbals, you will see how the 4-way buttons are plugged in and also at https://www.mdifilm.com/2013/?p=1291

    Good luck,

    If you want to stay connected, [email protected]

  16.

    @southerndude - I'm using a canon 6D with a vivitar 13mm lens. I'm using my own PIDs I started with Tom Antos but had a lot of uncontrollable shaking form the motors, started over from all zeros and worked my way up, its working well now as far as balance and steady shots, just no luck from the buttons. I think they are either defective, or the wires aren't hooked up right.

  18.

    I have mine pretty well setup, balanced, and working fairly well in follow mode. The only problem I seem to be having is that I can't for the life of me, get the thumb buttons to work.
    I'm not entirely sure where to plug them in (on either end) I've tried multiple configs, that I've seen in various tutorials and photos, but nothing seems to work. Does anyone have the buttons working and can tell me the right way to plug it in and setup the RC Settings in SimpleBGC?
    So far the gimbal seems great, but would be nice to be able to use the thumb buttons for tilt and roll or maybe to swap profiles.

  19.

    ok I promise this is my last message about my dead board.
    Board is in fact NOT dead. A few brain cells later (once someone suggested it on the Basecam forum) - I tried another USB cable...and wahey - it worked fine)

    duh.

    Anyway - still have balancing and configuring to do - but at least the thing works without freaking out 😉

  20.

    oh btw if anyone else is struggling to balance a GH2/GH3 with a pancake lens - I'm pretty sure you can't do it without mounting some kind of a sliding quick release plate - the camera can't get forward enough (by about 1/2 inch) - of course you could mount a weight on the front I guess.

    Either way a quick release plate seems like a good idea. Actually a 2D plate would be a good idea - where you can make micro adjustments back and forward - would be much easier than having to undo the bolts and twist the CF tubes

  21.

    so do I. the CAME is solid. I'm off to home depot later to build a balancing stand from PVC pipe (girlfriend got annoyed I was using two stools in the living room upside down 😉 - still bummed that my board is dead ;(

  22.

    Nick: I looked at that unit It does not have the same Camera mount. It does not have a top bar that goes across the top framing the camera, you can see how they have the sensor taped to the lens on the camera,because there is no top section to have the sensor mounted like the Came7000 unit.

    Pretty hokie looking to me, I like the Came7000's build quality. and it's success rate on builds.

  23.

    btw - I started up a discussion on the Basecam forums (for those who don't know - Basecam are the manufacturers of the sensor boards that are the brains of many of the Gimbal rigs - I believe my CAME 7000 kit has a dead sensor (can't see the serial port on any PC or MAC I try it on. (4 computers so far)

    bummer because it means I can't really play with it.

    https://forum.basecamelectronics.com/index.php?p=/discussion/762/virtual-port-not-showing-up (here's the thread if anyone else runs into this problem). Interestingly the guy on there says that CAME is not an official distributor - so they are refusing the replace the board.

    will keep people updated

  24.

    emm the price listed for the package is $679.99 - that includes the controller and sensor - not clear if it includes the cables - but the cables are gonna be what??? $30 tops

    I'm sitting in front of a came 7000 so I'm done no matter what - just wanted to point it out is all.

  25. Emm

     Post author

    @Nick Bicanic - Good luck, I don't think that comes with the controller board or sensor and cables. You'll have to pick all of that up separately, and that's why it seems cheaper.

  27.

    Approximately... what are the dimensions of the rig when it lays in its most flat orientation? I'd like to see which Pelican Case or similar would be most appropriate to transport the Came 7000 rig.

  28.

    What an annoying thing to get stuck on.
    I can't configure the device - basically even when I install the CP2102 drivers and connect the USB cable - there are no virtual ports installed.
    In other words - when I run the SimpleBGC software I cannot connect to the board

    I've tried all combinations (with and without the daughter board, with and without battery connections simultaneous with mini-USB) and same thing.

    Also tried on three different PC's - same thing.

    The weird thing is - the virtual port should enumerate EVEN if the AlexMos board is not connected - but it just doesn't.

    Anyone got any ideas?

    I'm trying the simpleBGC forum now

  30.

    Just thought I'd add

    1. Soldered wires (it was easy enough - I was just trying to do it elegantly - but the wire is too big. Came should really ship them pre-soldered (or with a soldered short connector + extension). Anyway it works

    2. Bent pins as per Emm's suggestion. The carbon fiber case found by southerndude is on order

    now getting the software

  31.

    Nick,

    I took my controller board and wires to a Computer Repair place localy and they did it for free. I don't know how to solder. Just getting ready tomorrow to start to balance and configure the gimbal. I'll post my findings and provide any tips and any advice in regards to programming.

    Good Luck and just take your time and be patient.

    Leon

  32.

    ok my last point was clearly TLDR for Emm and others so I'll try again

    1. I haven't put the camera on yet but pitch motor seems more stiff/resistant to rotation than the other motors - is anyone else experiencing this?

    2. Anyone tried to drill a hole in the long carbon fibre tube that supports the main camera stage. A small hole (or even groove so it can be slid for balancing) near the ROLL motor – would allow you to route even the last bit of cabling away from hands

    3. Power on sequence? what should happen once you turn it on – I haven’t soldered the connectors yet – but when I hold the contacts in place – I get a solid green and a flashing green on the board but no servo noise etc – which I found a little bit worrying (I wonder if everything is connected the right away around)

    4. tips on best way to solder the connectors to the board?

  34. Emm

     Post author

    @Southerndude - I always try to find a way to make templates. One easy way to do this is to get transparency paper or clear film. Lay the clear film over the bolts and mark them with a pen. Then lay the film over your project box, tape it down, and start drilling through your template.

    Run to your local office supply store and get those transparency papers they used with overhead projectors. They work great to see where you need to mark things and then how it lays over what you want to drill.

  35.

    Emm,

    Could you share a couple of photos and maybe explain what your technique was to mark and make the holes in the project box for the Controller? I have already trashed a box, and got the second one, I do have a Dremel tool. It's just thinking thru the on how mark it to be exact.

    Thanks,

    Leon

  37.

    ok mine arrived today and I couldn't resist assembling it right away.
    I followed the main CAME video for the basics (which were easy if a little pedantic). Then I used some of Emms videos for extra tips (e.g. moving the vertical side handles outwards so that yaw axis can go past 90 degrees (interesting the stock CAME video doesn't show that

    I have a few points and some questions (interestingly I've built a bunch of RC helicopters before so a lot of the connectors and delicate wire routing were familiar...

    1. If anyone wants to protect the sensor or protect the solder joints from cable snag - I recommend using https://sugru.com/ it's an electrical insulator and I've used it for tons of stuff. looks awesome and can be shaped - however warning...while it does come off - if you mash the entire sensor with it (for example) - it's gonna be tough to clean the sensor entirely 😉
    protecting cables and tidying up the hole around the USB socket - sugru is friggin perfect 😉

    2. This thing feels like it needs a forum of its own (www.cameuser.net anyone ;))
    Ok so my spares were:
    (a) a bunch of silver M3x6mm screws
    (b) only one black M3x8mm screw
    (c) an entire bag of M2.5x8mm screws - none were used
    (d) 7 of those 2.5 inch (approx) hex head bolts that hold the plastic split-rings together (oh and 6 plastic split rings)
    (e) a short 4 wire RC cable (like the sensor cable but very short

    I wonder if everyone else has the same spares

    3. The 1/4 20 camera mount screw is really odd - it's a threaded bolt with a female threaded plastic knob...that spins continuously...but the threaded bolt has an internal hex head...

    What's the idea here? you screw it into the camera then you crank it down with the threaded knob?
    Or...you just throw it away and use some other 1/4 20?

    4. Any tips on the best way to solder the power connectors?

    5. Minor tip - when you take apart your RC leads (mine came with the connectors already removed on one side btw) - but I took them apart 2 or 3 times when I changed my mind about configurations 😉
    Anyway - when you put them together remember that the wire sequence is the MIRROR image of the other end of the cable...it's most certainly not the SAME as the other end 😉

    6. Power on sequence? what should happen once you turn it on - I haven't soldered the connectors yet - but when I hold the contacts in place - I get a solid green and a flashing green on the board but no servo noise etc - which I found a little bit worrying (I wonder if everything is connected the right away around

    7. If you connect the top cross bars (that lead to the vertical handles) as instructed in the STOCK came video - your remote control cable (assuming you route it through the crossbar) will rub against the servo motor...If you connect the top cross bars like in Emms video (with a little bit of space - edge of bar inline with plastic split-ring edge...then there will be no rubbing

    8. Does anyone know if some motors should be Smoother than others...
    With the power off the ROLL and YAW are super smooth - in fact if I lift up the assembly with the horizontal handle the entire thing tips and twists...

    except for PITCH...

    PITCH is kinda stiff...is that to be expected - or is there a flaw in the motor - the sooner I raise it with CAME the better...??

    9. Last but not least - has anyone tried to drill a hole in the long carbon fibre tube that supports the main camera stage. A small hole near the ROLL motor - would allow you to route even the last bit of cabling away from hands 😉
    Seems like it would still be structurally sound

  41. Bill

    Hi emm thanks a lot for the review .do u need to move the camera to change battery ( ex: canon 5d mkiii) and how do u focus.thanks

  45. Ludovic A.

    HI Emm,

    firmware of the SimpleBGC_GUI is the v2.30 (2.3b4 exactly i think) and "profile"... i don't know.. i saw "profile 1" but i don't know what is it ^^

    thx !
    L.

  47. Ludovic A.

    Hi Emm,

    I write to you first, thank you for your review on the gimbal CAME-7000, it has helped me to make my decision and i bought the gimbal.
    By the way, everything is ok (balancing and with controller board) but I can’t configure the joystick.. when I plug it the gimbal shake and no longer works properly. So I don’t know if the connection is good or if the configuration in simpleBGC is good too, or both. ^^

    maybe you can help me ..?

    best regards,
    Ludo.

  52. Emm

     Post author

    @Southerndude - Sure, I can show how mine is hooked up. I'll try to do this later today.

  54. a1

    Hi

    hope your well
    Can you tell me what the maximum height of the cage where the camera fit in is ?

    Thanks so much for your time

    Antoine

  56. Simon W

    Thanks Emm for the tips - I have had the Came 7000 for a few weeks now and your info is greatly appreciated and was extremely useful. I was very frustrated with balancing, wiring, and programming until I saw your videos. I used your profile for my 5DMK3 + 16-35mm and it worked with minimal tweaking. My YAW still seems little screwed up though - might need more work.

    @Dean: I have used the 8 bit software and tried both 2.3 and 2.4 - I know Emm's profile worked on 2.3 but I don't think it will work on 2.4. I have not tried the 32 bit software yet. CAME advised me that 2.4 is "unstable" but I haven't verified that yet.

  57. Dean

    Emm,

    Where to find the project case you used. Did you already post somewhere?

    I might try to go your route!

  58. Charlie

    Hey there, how do I tell if I have an 8 or 32 bit controller? Mine arrived yesterday and I want to make sure I download the correct software.

  59. Joseph

    ...Just wanted to say how I appreciate all of the hard work and documentation that you have done hear. Bravo Sir!

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