Here's a very quick look at the new Rokinon 10mm F/2.8 Prime Lens for Micro Four Thirds cameras. This lens mounts directly to MFT cameras such as the GH3/GH4/ or BlackMagic Pocket Cinema Camera.
I was looking for a lens that could offer a wider field of view over my 12-35mm F/2.8, but after receiving the lens I was a bit disappointed. The size of the lens and lack of front filter threads made it harder to work with than my existing lenses.
Rokinon 10mm F/2.8 MFT Prime Lens
Considering it lacks image stabilization and is priced at over $520 dollars, if you're looking for a good Rokinon MFT Prime Lens for video I think the better choice would be with the Rokinon 12mm F/2.0 for $399.
cendrick
So I've not seen any recent posts on this in awhile.
Anyone come up with the perfect solution for a good wide angle look without too much fisheye?
Al Dolega
You couldn't speedboost the 12mm f2 as it is a mirrorless lens. No room in the focal design to squeeze in a reducer.
You could boost the 10mm though, if you got it in a mirrored mount (Nikon, EF, etc).
Emm
Post author@Glenn - I have not tried it. I am trying to stay away from adding too much weight if I don't need it. I can always shoot with my Canon 5D Mark III + Tokina 11-16mm (@16mm) if I need ultra wide, but I'm looking to work with smaller and lighter camera setups.
Glenn
Hey Emm,
Was wondering if you've tried the Rokinon 14mm nikon mount with the speedbooster/lens turbo? I believe the combo should come off wider than the 12mm! Have not had the chance to try that though.
Dave Monak
I was hoping to see some actual video that compared the Rokinon Cine 10mm to the 12mm MFT lens (I have asked Samyang for this too). I have been debating on these two lens for my BMPCC for some time, I do have the 16mm and really like it, but sometimes I need a wide FOV. I am leaning towards the 12mm, as I do like to use ND filters to manage bright sunshine.
Peter
Get the oly 9-18 mft, I just got it and I'm really impressed. A little slow at 3.5 but on GH4 you can crank the iso up with minimal noise. There is a good review on amazon from another pro described the differences between it and the pana 7-14, plus you can put filters on!
Chris Knight
I also wonder about the impact of cover glass thickness (mostly on my a7R for stills work.)
For video work, if you want to manual focus follow or set up a follow focus knob, it's significantly more difficult with "focus-by-wire" lenses (Oly/Panny m43 lenses); although I suppose you can use the few lenses by Olympus that have a "manual focus" mode with a focus scale. But also using small lenses (even lenses like my Voigtlander 17.5mm) with focus follow systems may be challenging because of the very small focus rings.
The optical impact of the cover glass thickness, when shooting video, is less significant as you're using multiple pixels (or using a smaller, more "center of the FoV" set of pixels.)
SAraG
Why not just get the tokina 11-16mm. its a proven sharp lens that can be purchased for less than the 10mm. And you can add filters to it. I mean 1mm is no big deal. You can also make it a stop faster with a speed booster where the m4/3 lenses you cannot. And you can use it on larger chip size cameras. Seems like a win win for the tokina to me.
urban runoff
In regards to adapting lenses instead of buying mft glass:
What about that recent article that makes the case for buying mft specific glass because there is a difference in glass thickness covering the sensor and lenses should be designed with each system in mind (full frame vs crop sensor).
do manufactures like rokinon design mft specific glass or do they just change the mount ?
Emm
Post author@Bruce Lemieux - Video looks good, almost HDR like too. That lens is extremely wide.
Bruce Lemieux
Wide angle on the GH4 is not turning into a walk in the park. I've been getting up to speed with my GH4 using the Panasonic 7-14 for interior real estate shots (examples at http://www.stringfellowplace.com - video and photos). I'm not liking the distortion/near-fisheye look. The interior shots were 1080p.... going 4K would crop it and reduce some of this distortion. I'll need to figure out how to correct this in Lightroom/Premier Pro; and/or find a different solution.
From B&H's site, I think I'll try the Samyang 10mm f/2.8 + MSB for Nikon mount.
Alex Talis
Wait, and get Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 7-14mm f/2.8
Coming Soon.
Michael Kleven
Both the 10mm and the 12mm might be interesting with the new Metabones EF-MFT Speedbooster. (Although this is currently available only for the BMPCC). I've read that it will not work with EF-S mount glass. So would that apply to these lenses or are they standerd EF mount?
Denny
Thanks, I was looking at the wrong white line on the dial...
Chris Knight
I'm with Paul...I have most of the A-mount versions of the lenses and adapt. Alas many adapters are junk, but they're cheap enough you can buy a bunch and find a winner. Oh and the focus scale is off, but yay focus peaking.
I was able to use an ND filter wedged between the petals with my 14mm to good effect in a shoot.
Alas, many of the Samyang (Rokinon/Bower/etc.) lenses suffer from "breathing"...the field of view changes when you change focus. A problem, unless you want that "effect" when you're racking focus.
Emm
Post author@Denny - set it to movie mode on the top dial, also set your video to manual exposure.
Denny
So, I bought the GH4, actually from one of your links. I just got it and popped in my 64gb kingston card 80mbs/90mbs and for some reason I can not access many of the options in the menu such as either of cinelikes and 4k modes. I am in 24 hertz... what am I doing wrong? Do I have the wrong cards?
Paul
Rokinon definitely occupies a simplified, economy, all-manual product niche. All of their lenses at each focal length are identical, just with different flange distance spacers depending on the lens mount. It's why I get Canon EF versions of the Rokinon Cine line, which I can adapt to both MFT and E-mount (or hook straight onto Cinema EOS), using a basic adapter, or a Lens Turbo/Speedbooster, or a HolyManta with a rear variable ND filter sitting inside the flange spacer that solves the problem you mentioned at the front of the lens. This is something I spend some time explaining in this commentary: httpss://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkB8vs3Ze98